European Vacation 2008

The “Freie Hansestadt Hamburg” still looks and feels just that - Independent. It’s alive and active - it’s new without having lost it’s old charm and live - Hamburgers and Hamburg are proud to have a tradition and at the same time know that they must progress if they want to remain one of the “Free Trading Port Cities” of the world.

Entertainment and good food also also part of this life and living in this town.
I personally know this town from over 40 years ago and can see the new without it having lost it’s old lifestyle.

 ….. more about our stay in Hamburg when we have some time to write ….

The Capital City (once again since reunification) of Germany is still a city of construction cranes and areas requiring re-development.

One way of seeing this exciting city is to take a River boat cruise up the Spree and down the “Landware Kanal ” past many of the old historic places as well as through the new super modern new German Parlamentary building complex and accommodation developments, past remaining section of the wall which once devided East & West Germany etc …..

…. more about our 3 days in Berlin when we get some time to do some writing ….

An old “Fachwerk” town of Quedlinburg with a history dating back to the 900’s with the 1st German King (Otto 1.) while the area was part of the Roman Empire is a town worth a visit. Located to the east of the Harz in what was once part of the previous East German state it is now also connected to the narrow gauge Harz Railway line.

….. more about this town when we have more time to write ….

The roads along both sides of the Mosel are lined with vineyards most of which go up at 45% angled slops. Small villages with independent wine makers (various sizes some better known than others) and small B&Bs are like gems rowed up on a necklace with the dual town of Bernkastle / Kues as the center jewel.

Unfortunately on the day of our visit - a Monday - ALL the nice cake shops were closed “Montag = Ruhetag”- and I had so looked forward to my lunch of a veriety of cream cakes etc with a good cup of Filter Kaffee. Instead I had to head to the nearest Imbiss and console my self with a couple of Sausages & pommes (frites).

….. more about this and our time (once again) on the banks of the Rhein in Boppard - this time with some friends ……

On our way to the Loire valley we visited the Chateau Plessis Brezot where we staid two years ago when the new owners had taken over the vineyards and the wine cellars - but unfortunately had not been able take over the Chateau. On this visit we found out that the previous owners had finally vacated the premises (over 2 years after the sale had been completed) and Luc and his wife could move in & their twin daughters were born in the Chateau just 10 days after our visit.

Luc - who creates wines in the very old traditonal styles without any chemical additions - in the vineyard or the production of the wines - was very pleased to receive us and show off his first creations. He has a small but distinctly different range of wines which he was eager to have us taste and comment on. One stood out and he is particularly proud of - His 2005 Cuvee Romaine has been created in the early Roman style (the land was already planted with vines in the Roman days) with traditional methods as would have been used in those days. We found this wine to VERY interesting and VERY easy to drink.

The other 4 wines he presented for tasting (including a light red and an experimental “Greek” version of the Cuvee Romaine) were also of very high quality - and we finished most of the content of the bottles - this was mainly achieved by Michael and Luc and ate much fresh bread and some excellent cheeses etc with it during our 4 hour stay.

Luc’s family has had another addition in the two years since our last visit and we do wish him and his young family all the success he deserves.

Drive through Bordeau wine region and river crossing on way to La Rochelle - staying at St Jean d’Acre Hotel on the inner port by the towers  and Fort Boyard boat Cruise

+ see also Food Report on Restaurant Andre

… reports coming soon

Michael and Hans both enjoyed the trip from Lekeitio to Hossegor along the Atlantic coast much of it winding mountain roads until we hit the flat lands of the “Landes” [they were in the front - Jim and I (Jacqui) in the back]. The weather was still not the best with overcast skies and ocassional drizzle.

We thank Jacques and Bruno once again for a wonderful stay at their establishment “Barbary Lane” in Hossegor. Bruno makes really great cakes! One of our first tasks was to check out the beaches and see if there was any surf “up”. Unfortunately it wasn’t the best on our first day. Michael and I had a nice long walk around the Lake and back to the hotel via the ocean.

We had a great meal just up the road from the hotel with the best chips Jim’s ever had (really crunchy!); a big bowl of white bait and fabulous barbecued mussles, prawns and really baby, bady squid - and masses of it.

The second day we attended to the laundry in the morning with Jim making friends with a lovely young lady in the laundromat who helped him fold his washing after she saw the job he was making of it. Unfortunately I came back too soon and took over this task! Off we then went to check out the local surf spots, local shops (how can the local surfies afford the expensive gear on offer?) and the weather was much better and so was the surf!

After this quick (2 night) stay it was time to pack the bags and head off to La Rochelle for the oysters and other seafood delights.

The Trip from Olite to Lekeitio on the Atlantic Coast was easy and without too much trouble. For the early section past Pamplona we used the AP15 turning north to Zumarraga & on to Deba. At Ondarroa we again were not able to find the coastal “B1-638″ to Lekeitio and had to used the inland route via the B1-633. (on our way out of town we found the B1-638 along the coast to Ondarra - an excellent scenic route - and now know where it leaves from)
We have been to this old fishing port town before two years ago and were not disappointed with the location and views from the Hotel Emperatriz-Zita we had chosen for our 2 day stay. The Tapas Bars were not open all day - as they were 2 years ago - the reasonbeing that it’s too early and the season has not quite started. One small Bar Restaurant however did manage to stay open a little longer serving food through to about 4pm (16:00). Our evening meal had to wait to after 20:30 however in the hotel dining room. The weather was changing from quick showers to very warm sunshine during both days. We managed however to have an excellent time and did enjoy our stay.

A couple of quick comments about the hotel [ www.aisiahoteles.com ]:
A little more attention to detail would make a big difference. Flowers in vases are left with fallen petals not cleaned away for days. the view from the balcony (which do have brackets for flower baskets - without any flowers) is spoiled by dirty roofs below with weeds growing in the gutters.
The staff - including the restaurant waiters / waitresses - do not speak or understand any English and the a-la-carte menu is only available in Spanish with no translation available (unless a fellow guest happens to speak both languages). - We noticed that at least 50% of guests are non-Spanish! (English and German was spoken by many) Reception staff are able to speak a good English in general however.
It appears that mangement is not fully aware of how the standard of the hotel is missing that little extra care and attention to details - which would make the experience just that much more perfect.

For Monday (26.May) we had booked into the “Hostal Principe de Viana” in Olite in the district of Navarra. Little did we know that a small visual treat was waiting for us in this little town off the main drag just south of Pamplona.

We managed to get out of Barcelona in morning traffic via the “Diagonal” and a large number of round abouts while dodging at times agressive drivers in cars and on scooters. Once we got the direction signs to “AP2″ and Lleida / Zaragoza we knew we were on the right track and on our way out of town. Following the “A” roads via the two above and than in direction San Sebastian and Pamplona it was a matter of taking the right turn off to get on to the N121 in direction Olite.

The town - like many in this area is a mixture of old, new and newly renovated (restored?) old buildings.
Finding the “Parador” hotel was no problem with signs directing us at every intersection. Once we reached the “inner courtyard” it became obvious why it was impossible to get it on any street maps. The temporary parking (to unload our belongings) is part of an old inner park and no vehicles may be parked in it - so out of the big stone gate again and off to the parking lot down below the grounds.

Part of the “Hostal Principe de Viana” is an old medieval Castle (built by King Carlos III of Navarra in the early 1500’s and was his summer residence until his death in 1425) - carefully restored and converted into an excellent hotel with a newly built wing housing the accommodation. The rooms are styled and furnished to give an old fashioned (middle ages) impression with up-to-date modern conveniences. After a little relaxation and quick refreshing drink in the bar of the hotel it was time to do the usual exploration of the surrounds. To our surprise the town square next to the old church (currently being restored) is an excellent example of new and restored old buildings creating an old fashioned feel to go with the history of the Castle (the hotel) and the church.
My camera was running hot after a couple of hours of snapping everything in sight …..

Yes we did really like this little place - both the town Olite and the Parador Hotel including it’s locally influenced evening dinner menu (from 20:30 of course) and the rich buffet style breakfast in the morning.

The trip to Barcelona on Friday (23.May) along the coastal road from Costa Brava to the Rafaelhotel Diagonal Port was “interesting”. We would not say it is something one needs to do and see - but we are glad we did see it this once.
The local “N” road is used by many trucks (no toll) and as we have seen in other European countries - here too the “trucky’s trolls” ply their trade on the side of the road, all very well groomed and sitting on white plastic patio chairs by convenient lay-bys [gives a new meaning to the term :-)].
The most horrible sights along this road however is what has been done to the sea-side villages which once must have been some of the jewels along the coast north of Barcelona. Now they are ugly (often dirty) overcowded sites of mass tourism with highrise holiday apartment buildings and bars etc.
As I said above - it’s something we are glad to have seen once by passing through , but we never wish to see again. - Question is how can anything this ugly and overcrowded be commercially viable ?

OK - we got into Barcelona and like any large city - you have to find your way - and we did and got to the Hotel [ www.diagonalport.com ] on the southern (newere) end of town just below the ‘Olympic port’. The facilities are very well presented supported by friendly and helpful staff. On-site secure parking is available (15 EUR per day) and breakfast (a good buffet style) is charged per person as it’s taken.

As is custom in Spain (and many of us find it hard to get used to) meal times are a bit unusual and room service food is generally only available at those times. Lunch is from 13:00 - about 16:00 and evening meal time starts at 20:30 (if your lucky) and goes to about 23:00.
There are however bars that serve Tapas. The traditional range has been expanded to include small single dish serves of various kinds of foods these days. The 1st afternoon (early evening) we were not too lucky in finding anything exciting. However the next two evening meals were taken at “El Modernista” - see seperate post under Food Reports.

Day one (Saturday) was spent on the “Rambla” [Outdoor cafes, stands selling birds, flowers, postcards, paintings, jewelry and more are set up right down the middle of the street, while more permanent tapas bars, hotels and shops line this important part of the city], “S. Josep Mercat” - with it’s large selection of stalls with all kinds of foods et al, and in many the side streets ….. the weather beeing a little kind to us with mainly sunny patches.
The next day unfortunately had to be declared a ‘rest day’ due to rain and cold winds, with some time spent reading books and spending time in the small hotel bar. Lucky by evening meal time it got just a touch better so we could get to the restaurant / bar without getting wet.

So we never did get to ride the double decker busses and did not get to see all the Gaudy sights again - which we had been looking forward to. - …. well such is life