European Vacation 2008

Michael and Hans both enjoyed the trip from Lekeitio to Hossegor along the Atlantic coast much of it winding mountain roads until we hit the flat lands of the “Landes” [they were in the front - Jim and I (Jacqui) in the back]. The weather was still not the best with overcast skies and ocassional drizzle.

We thank Jacques and Bruno once again for a wonderful stay at their establishment “Barbary Lane” in Hossegor. Bruno makes really great cakes! One of our first tasks was to check out the beaches and see if there was any surf “up”. Unfortunately it wasn’t the best on our first day. Michael and I had a nice long walk around the Lake and back to the hotel via the ocean.

We had a great meal just up the road from the hotel with the best chips Jim’s ever had (really crunchy!); a big bowl of white bait and fabulous barbecued mussles, prawns and really baby, bady squid - and masses of it.

The second day we attended to the laundry in the morning with Jim making friends with a lovely young lady in the laundromat who helped him fold his washing after she saw the job he was making of it. Unfortunately I came back too soon and took over this task! Off we then went to check out the local surf spots, local shops (how can the local surfies afford the expensive gear on offer?) and the weather was much better and so was the surf!

After this quick (2 night) stay it was time to pack the bags and head off to La Rochelle for the oysters and other seafood delights.

The Trip from Olite to Lekeitio on the Atlantic Coast was easy and without too much trouble. For the early section past Pamplona we used the AP15 turning north to Zumarraga & on to Deba. At Ondarroa we again were not able to find the coastal “B1-638″ to Lekeitio and had to used the inland route via the B1-633. (on our way out of town we found the B1-638 along the coast to Ondarra - an excellent scenic route - and now know where it leaves from)
We have been to this old fishing port town before two years ago and were not disappointed with the location and views from the Hotel Emperatriz-Zita we had chosen for our 2 day stay. The Tapas Bars were not open all day - as they were 2 years ago - the reasonbeing that it’s too early and the season has not quite started. One small Bar Restaurant however did manage to stay open a little longer serving food through to about 4pm (16:00). Our evening meal had to wait to after 20:30 however in the hotel dining room. The weather was changing from quick showers to very warm sunshine during both days. We managed however to have an excellent time and did enjoy our stay.

A couple of quick comments about the hotel [ www.aisiahoteles.com ]:
A little more attention to detail would make a big difference. Flowers in vases are left with fallen petals not cleaned away for days. the view from the balcony (which do have brackets for flower baskets - without any flowers) is spoiled by dirty roofs below with weeds growing in the gutters.
The staff - including the restaurant waiters / waitresses - do not speak or understand any English and the a-la-carte menu is only available in Spanish with no translation available (unless a fellow guest happens to speak both languages). - We noticed that at least 50% of guests are non-Spanish! (English and German was spoken by many) Reception staff are able to speak a good English in general however.
It appears that mangement is not fully aware of how the standard of the hotel is missing that little extra care and attention to details - which would make the experience just that much more perfect.

For Monday (26.May) we had booked into the “Hostal Principe de Viana” in Olite in the district of Navarra. Little did we know that a small visual treat was waiting for us in this little town off the main drag just south of Pamplona.

We managed to get out of Barcelona in morning traffic via the “Diagonal” and a large number of round abouts while dodging at times agressive drivers in cars and on scooters. Once we got the direction signs to “AP2″ and Lleida / Zaragoza we knew we were on the right track and on our way out of town. Following the “A” roads via the two above and than in direction San Sebastian and Pamplona it was a matter of taking the right turn off to get on to the N121 in direction Olite.

The town - like many in this area is a mixture of old, new and newly renovated (restored?) old buildings.
Finding the “Parador” hotel was no problem with signs directing us at every intersection. Once we reached the “inner courtyard” it became obvious why it was impossible to get it on any street maps. The temporary parking (to unload our belongings) is part of an old inner park and no vehicles may be parked in it - so out of the big stone gate again and off to the parking lot down below the grounds.

Part of the “Hostal Principe de Viana” is an old medieval Castle (built by King Carlos III of Navarra in the early 1500’s and was his summer residence until his death in 1425) - carefully restored and converted into an excellent hotel with a newly built wing housing the accommodation. The rooms are styled and furnished to give an old fashioned (middle ages) impression with up-to-date modern conveniences. After a little relaxation and quick refreshing drink in the bar of the hotel it was time to do the usual exploration of the surrounds. To our surprise the town square next to the old church (currently being restored) is an excellent example of new and restored old buildings creating an old fashioned feel to go with the history of the Castle (the hotel) and the church.
My camera was running hot after a couple of hours of snapping everything in sight …..

Yes we did really like this little place - both the town Olite and the Parador Hotel including it’s locally influenced evening dinner menu (from 20:30 of course) and the rich buffet style breakfast in the morning.

Finding a new “Good Food” place is part of our journey’s challenge.

Restaurante / Cafeteria “El Modernista” is one such place - only recently opened and still to be discovered even by the locals.

Chef “Mike” - a Lebanese American who now is in charge of this small Tapas Bar just off the southern beaches of Barcelona - is able to draw on many years of experience creating some of the new style of “Tapas”. It’s virtually anything goes from the original traditional Anchovy, Sardines etc to tasty sensations using potatoes, chickpeas, beef, turkey and so much more - what is fresh today and what ever is fresh from the mind and hands of a chef like Mike is like small morsels of food from heaven - in this place served very professionally by the lovely [Russian import] “Inna” who has learned the hospitaly trade well and is eager to please the diner with food & drink.

We left the choices of dishes to Mike and Inna on both evenings and we enjoyed everything of the wide variety placed on our table to be shared by all 4 of us. We wish the team - owner and staff - all the success they deserve. - We wish Mandurah and Western Australia could attract such high quality creators of fine casual food and service.

The trip to Barcelona on Friday (23.May) along the coastal road from Costa Brava to the Rafaelhotel Diagonal Port was “interesting”. We would not say it is something one needs to do and see - but we are glad we did see it this once.
The local “N” road is used by many trucks (no toll) and as we have seen in other European countries - here too the “trucky’s trolls” ply their trade on the side of the road, all very well groomed and sitting on white plastic patio chairs by convenient lay-bys [gives a new meaning to the term :-)].
The most horrible sights along this road however is what has been done to the sea-side villages which once must have been some of the jewels along the coast north of Barcelona. Now they are ugly (often dirty) overcowded sites of mass tourism with highrise holiday apartment buildings and bars etc.
As I said above - it’s something we are glad to have seen once by passing through , but we never wish to see again. - Question is how can anything this ugly and overcrowded be commercially viable ?

OK - we got into Barcelona and like any large city - you have to find your way - and we did and got to the Hotel [ www.diagonalport.com ] on the southern (newere) end of town just below the ‘Olympic port’. The facilities are very well presented supported by friendly and helpful staff. On-site secure parking is available (15 EUR per day) and breakfast (a good buffet style) is charged per person as it’s taken.

As is custom in Spain (and many of us find it hard to get used to) meal times are a bit unusual and room service food is generally only available at those times. Lunch is from 13:00 - about 16:00 and evening meal time starts at 20:30 (if your lucky) and goes to about 23:00.
There are however bars that serve Tapas. The traditional range has been expanded to include small single dish serves of various kinds of foods these days. The 1st afternoon (early evening) we were not too lucky in finding anything exciting. However the next two evening meals were taken at “El Modernista” - see seperate post under Food Reports.

Day one (Saturday) was spent on the “Rambla” [Outdoor cafes, stands selling birds, flowers, postcards, paintings, jewelry and more are set up right down the middle of the street, while more permanent tapas bars, hotels and shops line this important part of the city], “S. Josep Mercat” - with it’s large selection of stalls with all kinds of foods et al, and in many the side streets ….. the weather beeing a little kind to us with mainly sunny patches.
The next day unfortunately had to be declared a ‘rest day’ due to rain and cold winds, with some time spent reading books and spending time in the small hotel bar. Lucky by evening meal time it got just a touch better so we could get to the restaurant / bar without getting wet.

So we never did get to ride the double decker busses and did not get to see all the Gaudy sights again - which we had been looking forward to. - …. well such is life

On Saturday, 18.May, we drove about 450 km from Rocamadour in southern France to “Mama’s” in Empuriabrava on the northern Meditarian coast in Spain (Costa Brava). We used the fast A roads via Toulouse, Carcassonnne and Narbonne and only go back onto local “N” roads after Perpignan to go along the spectacular coastal road via Port Vendres, Banyuls-sur-Mer into Spain and on to Llanca and finally to Empuriabrava.

The 5 nights (4 days) were spent mainly with family and eating home cooked meals as one would when visiting “Mama” :-). We needed to update the TV (with a new 26″ flat screen) as the old one had just died the day before our arrival, as well as the Laptop with another second hand unit (only is used for family eMails by Mama - who is after all 87 this year).

We did manage to go back to Ca La Maria for Lunch before we left. As on previous visits we had an excellent traditional Spanish meal - including Pigs Trotters, Pigeon, Leg of Kid (Goat) and of course the famous local Anchovies.

Leaving Mama and her trusted little dog companion “Teddy” was not easy as usual.

One of the main reasons we keep coming back to Rocamadour and the Beau Site Hotel is the Restaurant “Jehan de Valon”. The establishment has been featured in many articles and guides for fine dining including the Michelin Guide.

We found this place in 1996 and have been staying and eating here every time we have visited the EU - and celebrated many birthdays here

This year it’s Jacqui’s 50s and once again the staff and the food did not disappoint us.
This year we feasted on “pigs trotter’s terrine”, “Foes Gra”, “Scrambled Egg with Truffels” & hot “Smoked Salmon” for entrees.
Main Courses included the excellent local Roast Lamb - curved with much flair by the Maitre de’.

The Desert was a suprise from the house in the form of a nicely presented mixed forest fruit Mouse which was set in a delicated fine biscuite ‘case’, each serve was dished up with a fruit sauce. - another delightful finalle to the meal.

We had a bottle of Louis Roderer Champagne with our meal.
….. and when we returned to our room we found a half bottle of Champage and their small delightful Chocolate Mousse et al - unfortunately we were much to satisfied from the dinner to be able to consume anything else - The mousse was a nice breakfast snack and the champagne will be consumed at some later stage when appropriate.

We will continue to highly recommend this hotel and it’s excellent food and service
….. mercy bien

On Thursday 15. May we set off from Saint Remy on the long journey to Rocamadour. As expected the trip was through the hills between Nimes and Milau was slow going. We again used a short section on the A75 to pass over the valley of Milau via the impressive Viduct which marked the half way point of the days travel. After this it was back to ‘N’ roads via Rodez towards Rocamadour.

This is the 4th time Jacqui & Hans (3rd for Jim) have been to this Cite Medieval built against the rock of a deep valley. The Grand Hotel Beau Site [ www.bestwestern-beausite.com ] and it’s Restaurant Jehan De Valon has seen us celebrate a number birthdays - this time it is Jacqui’s 50s (and she’s not too happy about this one ). We always stay in our favourite suite ‘22′ on the second floor of the old building [comprising a good size bedroom and a seperate small sitting room.  The bedroom is overlooking the narrow single lane main street and the bistro court yard with the valley beyond.

On Jacqui’s Birthday we took the car south to the wine district of Cahor, and followed the “Le Lot” river first west along the southern bank and after reaching Puy-l’Eveque we returned east towards Cahor on the other side (northern bank) - unfortunately the weather was not on our side and by about the half way mark the rain had really settled in. Sadly for us - but without it this region well known for it’s rich wine, Walnut and Safron would be able to produce it’s goods.

In the evening we enjoyed one of the splendid meals “Jahan De Valon” is famous for - see our seperate report under the food category.

The last day (Sat 17.May) in Rocamadour was devoted to shopping in the small shops lining the cobble stone single lane street of this village as well as visiting one of the many Foi Gras producers of the region to get Jacqui’s “fix” of this godly delight for the next couple of days :-)

Possibly the main reason for returning to Saint-Remy-de-Provence for the 3rd time must be the Restaurant Auberge de la Raine Jeanne. The menu has not changed as far as we know over the six years (we have travelled to Europe every 2 years).

On the first night we had a selection of Panache de Poissons (Marinated Fish including Salmon, squid & small sardines), Salade de Gourmande (Gizzards & Foi Gras) and a plate of Marinade de Sardines. Main Courses we enjoyed were Brochette de St Jacques (Scallops with a spicy Provencal Sauce), Turbot au Thym and Supions Provencal.

The next night Jacqui & Jim shared one of the excellent Specialities of the house - a Bouillabaisse (This Fish soup is obviously best known for it’s origin in Marsaille) - this was pre-ordered as required by the kitchen the day before. Unfortunately Hans was struck down with a very bad cold and only watched the two obviously enjoying the feast - first the fish soup stock and than the various seafoods used to create the magnificent meal. Once again - like the night before - they washed it down with a bottle of Cassa Dom Paternel blanc.

On our way back to our lodgings from the Romain Aquaduct at the Pont-Du-Gard we stopped at Beaucaire and had lunch at the La Marine Brasserie / Restaurant.

This is one of those delightful small brasseries you find every where in France. They provide good honest fresh local food from a small kitchen at very good prices. This place - being able to source some excellent local fish, mussels, prawns etc obviously features these on teh menu.

Jacqui had the Prawns specials “Gambas Grillee”  from the blackboard & Hans had the “Marmite du Pecheur” - The Fisherman’s cooking pot (a good solid stock with a mix of large fish and crustations of the day). Jim chose the “Oven baked Camembert” which is served with a generous salad.

The service by a (russian imported) young waitress was very friendly and efficient. Obviously it’s a nice place to eat as many locals seemed to eat there too